Lately I haven’t been able to face Borough market. There is lots about it to love, but the swathes of tourists you’re forced to navigate makes a relaxed of Spanish hams and stinky cheeses impossible. More recently, trips have taken on a human herding quality typical to that endured during underground rush hour; not what you’re looking for on a Saturday morning.
Instead, last weekend, we wondered down Bermondsey way. About 10 minutes down the road you come to Ropewalk market just off Maltby street, a little nook of railway arches that’s bustling with traders. Even with our numb noses from the weekend’s bitter weather we were hit by the smells conjured up by the various food stalls. I opted for the pulled pork with poached apple and celeriac remoulade from Market Gourmet which was delicious. Fall apart meatiness in a sweet brioche bun and mustardy bite from the remoulade. My market friend choose WaffleOn for his market treat, tucking away his warm & fluffy waffles with smoked bacon and runny fried egg in impressive speed. This eating was all done in the comfort & warmth of a reclamation warehouse, you just have to be mindful to sit on a chair that actually has a seating panel and all four legs solidly intact. Testing my descriptive language, a retro dance class taking place in what can only be described as a 1940’s mock living room set up in the middle of said reclamation yard. An odd, but nice, surprise spectacle.
I have to admit that, although in high praise of the pulled pork bun, I really wrestled with the possibility of iberico ham, cheese and wine at Tozino, a dimly lit and inviting bodega, but so packed we couldn’t get further than the front door. Next time I suppose. To finish off our foody trip we popped into Peyton & Byrne for coffees, a slice of cherry pie heaven and a breeze block sized lamington and subsequently rolled home. Now this is what a London food market should be.
Bermondsey SE1 3PA
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